24 Nisan 2020 Cuma

Surreal Times in 1999: A Post-Earthquake Story Part I


Dear Reader,

If you think that you are going through surreal times that you could never have imagined due to COVID-19, pause for a few minutes and see what you think of other surreal days back in time. The details are as new to me as they are to you since I have translated them from my diary. If I hadn’t written, hardly any memory of such a traumatic event would have stayed with me. I enjoyed translating it from Turkish into English as I realized how it helped me (and hopefully others will feel the same) to put things in perspective. 

The Izmit earthquake (also known as Marmara earthquake) occurred on 17 August 1999 at 03 a.m. local time in north-western Turkey. The shock had a moment magnitude of 7.6 and a maximum Mercalli intensity of IX (Violent). The event lasted for 37 seconds. Pretty darn long when you are woken up and shaken like that!

24 August 1999- Tuesday.  I woke up at 10 a.m. to the clean scent of my light blue sheets and pillow and I thought yesterday must have been a dream. It was so unreal and intense. Yeah, it was just a dream and sometimes - when they are very impactful and vivid - I tend to write my dreams so I decided to record this one as well. That’s all.

Then, I changed my mind. My favorite procrastination strategy was to pick a book randomly and begin to read a few pages. It was Tutunamayanlar by Oguz Atay ('The Disconnected') and the random page was: Mısra 11: Word and Loneliness. Okay, I am going to write this, but where to begin? With the phone call from Prof. Aysel Ekşi whose NGO I once volunteered for, or should I jump right into the morning, 8:15 to be specific where I knocked on the door of the Hilton Hotel room no. 757 in Elmadağ near Taksim? “Sorry, I arrived a bit early, I commute from the Asian side so…”, ‘Come in, no worries! Excuse our mess.” I look around. The huge suit room is indeed messy with piles of cables like spaghetti, coffee cups, empty candy and potato chips bags, newspapers…

A friendly bespectacled British man with a goatee is the only person in the room (or so I think). “Sara will be here in a minute, you can wait here,” he says. I thank him and ask whether he is a reporter. “I am an engineer, but that guy over there is a reporter,” pointing at someone in the corner. Tall, pale face with thin lips, an unhappy looking man, forces a smile: “Hi, I am James.” I ask both of them about the shots since I got a tetanus shot the day before when I signed up for volunteering as a translator on any earthquake damaged site.  They shake their heads: “There is nothing really against malaria, and we bring our own food and water”, pointing at the two boxes with Hilton stickers on.

Sara Beck shows up. She is young, hyper, blond, tall and skinny, generously providing me with tips and information, and is thus aware of my not knowing what to expect or how to behave in that setting while they are going to film and interview, and I will translate. After they finish their coffee, we go down and I meet the driver named Mustafa. We are all waiting for someone  called Jonathan Charles for some time already. Sara is full of praises for him, assuring me that he is a nice person to work with. Someone else introduces himself as the camera man (Michael) with a very subtle German accent. I mention my stay in Germany the year before, and make some small talk on the way to Adapazarı. Long after we cross the Boğaziçi Bridge, they suddenly decide to go back to Atatürk Airport, also on the European side where we started our journey from Hilton. What the heck, I wonder, and feel disappointed for lack of planning. Sara tells me that it is much better to follow a humanitarian aid convoy. It begins to rain again in the middle of August. As we are crossing the bridge, Michael mumbles into the blue-gray scenery and sighs: “Very beautiful place! It must be so nice to live here and witness this scene often. What a beauty…”
We have about 2 hours of drive (160 km) so we chat. They ask me many questions: What is the real population of Istanbul? Military coup d’états of the past decades, the importance of Atatürk today, politics in general etc. Michael and Jonathan arrived from Frankfurt this morning on the same flight, and I soon find out that almost everyone on the bus met this morning. They explain that the BBC has such a huge media network that when something happens anywhere around the world, the staff in that region is informed immediately and get together like they did in Hilton Hotel, and they begin working to cover that particular situation. Once the news is covered, each heads to their own direction to catch the next series of excitement. Radio reporter James who flew from Scotland tells me that it is pure coincidence that he ended up in Istanbul because the assigned staff’s wife just had a baby. He says that he is already the proud father of two kids, not knowing that I would never even consider dating people who lead such lives: “Hey, look at your daddy, just reporting live the latest earthquake zone!” I gag my imagination on the spot.

After we arrive in Adapazarı, my initial nervousness subsides. The buildings reduced to rubble and the despair on the locals’ faces are just like what I’d seen on the screen. Repeated heavy rains for the past days created a city of mud. People look desperate. More than one staff on the bus ask me why the city has two names and which one they should be using (I couldn’t tell but I guess Adapazarı, not Sakarya). Sara has no clue. In fact, she just flew from Russia. I know so because whenever she gets a call, she responds “hi, yeah, I am not in Russia… I am somewhere in Turkey…” and talks more about Russia than here. Stories from Turkey have to wait for the calls in her next destination. She is beautiful. She seems to be content with her image. I keep this mental picture of her eating some cold fried potatoes stuck together while listening to someone on the phone, nodding. She is easy to smile and friendly with everyone but also keeps a clear healthy distance. She looks so fresh and full of energy as if she just walked out of a beauty salon. I cannot get upset or ironic with her thinking that she will be back to her luxurious hotel room at the end of the day, can enjoy a nice shower or body lotions, perfumes even, put on her pajamas and crawl into a comfy bed unlike the people around us. She does a good job, enjoys being the bright program producer, modestly comments that “Ozlem, see the real face of BBC, our lives in mud and bus corners, don’t you think it’s pretty desperate looking?” (as the bespectacled British engineer’s comments).

Sara must have done with self-interrogations regarding her job, switching worlds between room-service calls to emergency calls in a flood.  She probably got used to it. The other Turkish interpreter who tells me that he worked for a private TV channel for three years is more critical than I am. He thinks the team members are acting so British that imagining their base in the U.K (unlike nomads) so much so that when he asked the time, one guy just told him the London time by mistake. However, he too appreciates their work discipline and professionalism. The permission before turning on the camera or taking a picture from each and every person and the style of asking questions (calm and polite) are worth mentioning and not very common in Turkish media.

My first task is to translate the conversation between the deputy governor of Sakarya and Sara Beck in an ugly concrete government building. The sleep-deprived dep-governor grants us his time and heavy smoke of his thick cigar.  Sara aims to learn what happened to the British aid which seemed evaporated or  distributed to the locals without the proper signatures and records. After looking at the list of items that Sara handed in, the man says they never received it. Everything is recorded at the Atatürk Airport when the aid passed through the customs, she says. She insists on getting a few names at least to track the aid further. He diverts fully and mentions the young volunteers who came to help from Ankara on their motorcycles. I keep on translating without facial expressions but I don’t have a poker face. Finally, we are told to inquire the state hospital authorities or village affairs unit.

Our next stop is one of the tent-cities as they are commonly referred to. Everything and everywhere is covered with mud. People made raincoats out of large trash bags and some of them tied plastic bags in a way that covers their summer shoes. Most kids have no shoes, just running around barefoot. There are many long lines around, each serving a different item such as soap, food, cigarette, and donated clothes. One woman who is sitting in front of a tent gestures, “Come over here, tape this so that the whole world can see the situation, I am not ashamed of this, the ones who put us through this should feel ashamed, not me!” We get closer and Jonathan is observing and listening carefully. She introduces two of the kids running around, one is ‘hers’ and the other one belongs to ‘her in-laws’ She says “I don’t care about myself but what do we do if these children get infections?” Her in-law comes and asks: “Where is the government? May God be pleased with the foreign aid we received from many countries but look at the tent-city that the government quartered us. Didn’t anyone consider rain by any chance?” One of the kids wants to have my pen, and his mom reproaches, “Abla is busy taking notes, don’t you see?” turns to me and apologizes: “They are playing all day long, so oblivious of what has happened”  She is very articulate indeed, manages to communicate with Jonathan when talking about the kids, their age, and which one belongs to who by using body language. I compliment her that I am not needed because she is very good at expressing herself.  

TO BE CONTINUED...

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