1 Nisan 2015 Çarşamba

Scent of Parsley in Bodrum versus Smell of Money & Fame in Istanbul



I was not in the mood for writing an entry, not at all. However, my friend Maria from Lisbon sent me an email with words of encouragement after reading my blog entries. Then, another lovely email from a student from Northern Cyprus who celebrated the Women's Day in her unique manner arrived. She made music & danced in the ancient olive grove right by the campus. She must be a secret shaman, gypsy and my spiritual daughter. She just does not know it yet. I miss ancient olive trees of the island and they know it. I want Beth Moon to come and take their pictures for her next exhibition, I promise to be her guide for free: http://bethmoon.com/
Having her autographed book with the most wonderful ancient tree pictures as a present from John Scanlan (Santa Fe) was just amazing. Thank you!
The problem with Istanbul is the pace of life. It is so fast (at least for me who has been spoiled in the easy-going Mediterranean island and then in artsy Santa Fe where amazing hikes were just a short drive away).  I could hardly prevent my laughter when Santa Feans kindly warned me of the reckless drivers whenever they heard that I rented a bicycle to ride in/around the town. I simply answered: "Thank you but believe me there is no traffic here and I feel very safe." Well, I did. I loved riding my bicycle there. Any time of the day including the midnight with full Moon guiding me after she learned that I had more than two glasses of sangria on that particular Friday at El Meson. 

Today, on my way out of the Gayrettepe subway station at around 4 pm, a very polite man stopped me to ask how to cross to the other side of the road. If he did not have that Istanbul Turkish and fine clothes, I would say, he acted like he just came from a village and looked so confused in the big city. Well, it turns out that he did! He lives in a small town in Bodrum peninsula for the past 27 years. He asked me (just as I was thinking about it by myself) how we can deal with this chaotic city. He comes for family visits (mother & sister) since he is originally from Istanbul.  He was very thankful that I showed him the way. I was exactly in the same confused state of mind and felt quite idiotic only two months ago. Now, at least I know how to get in and out, which directions to go after being underground. I refrained from using the phrase I am getting used to it because I don't want to get used to it and I have no plans of getting used to it. If someone donates me a house in Bebek and I can use it as my home-office, that is another story. However, just because you are in Istanbul you want to go out and follow stuff. The Istanbul Film Festival is coming soon (two other film festivals were over IF & Film Mor), there is always something going on in Pera Museum or Istanbul-Modern and many other galleries. I won't even go into the live-music scene! There is always someone who recommends a new restaurant or café; a friend who wants to meet and do something different. You come home exhausted; resenting & asking your body: "Why are you so tired?" I actually have friends who suggested Skype meetings so that each one of us can stay at home, sip our drinks and chat. That may be one practical solution but it also sounds so absurd to me since I use Skype for chatting with my friends in Toronto and Santa Cruz. 
You must have noticed that I did not even mention the money-issue. It is depressing. If you really want to enjoy the city, you need to be rich not just in money but also in time. You need them both! I feel sorry for the rich ones who work so hard and for too many hours, come home exhausted, and cannot even spend the money they earn when they want to. Their leisure time coincides with the rest of the city, the weekends! There is something so weird about that relationship (money, the same 48 hours, traffic jam, shopping mall jam). One example: Last Sunday, at around noon, the line in Starbucks Bebek was so ridiculously long, I mean you would think that they are giving out free coffee or latte for everyone (even in that case no way I'll wait for it!)

Yet, if the whole country has a heart and brain they are both located right here in Istanbul. Everything is here. Everything becomes possible if you are ambitious, strong and patient. If your life style is going in the direction of a Sufi (simple, modest, clean, no-ego) then you are in the wrong place my friend! You will be devoured or unhappy in this city. Consider Bodrum or at least one of the Princess islands if Bodrum sounds far away. The gentleman I met today looks very healthy and enjoys a glowing tan year-round. Just for the record, he told me life is much cheaper there and for some reason, he mentioned parsley. He said: "The parsley is so green in Bodrum. Its scent remains in your palm when you touch it. Farmer's Market is so lively and colorful". Just like the scent of fresh parsley, his words and the excitement in his voice in reference to Bodrum-life remained with me for the rest of the day.

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