19 Kasım 2014 Çarşamba

Kansas City: Paris of the Plains




That was one of the welcoming signs posted on the wall at the Kansas City (KC from now on) Airport which made me smile. I travel a lot and I am surprised with the extent of the comparisons of an X place to Paris across the world. I thought “well, another one of these…” I jumped into the shuttle bus and made my way to the hotel and impatiently waited for the moment of reunion with my good old friend from Toronto. We haven’t seen each other for ages. There is nothing like a good girlfriend. People pay tons of money to the therapists but I prefer to pay for the hotel & flight for reunions. Even the most serious and life-changing events taking place in one’s life can be transformed into light & creamy conversations embellished with big laughter that would make people turn around and wonder: What the hell they are laughing so hard for? 

The first night dinner was on Oya at Classic Cup on the Plaza. Fireplace and candle light definitely contribute to the classy ambiance. The dinner ended with a shared pumpkin pie (on the spicy side) so delicious that we went back the following night just for that one slice. Next day began with a must-visit to the Nelson Atkins Museum of Art (it is not just the collection but the building itself and the way it is designed as a Museum, it can compete with the leading art museums around the world) and continued with a play at Copaken Stage (rather than Spencer Theatre!) The play The Who and the What is written by Ayad Akhtar (1970-), directed by Eric Rosen, and is a comedy on the immigrant experience of a widowed Pakistani man with two daughters. Conflicts between the father and his American-born children, different interpretations of Islam and how it affects the family relations are the highlights. What it means to be an American and Muslim is major question that has been posed but definitely not answered especially after 9/11. 

Although the play was a moving one and is full with contemporary issues of how to deal with one’s identity and love, I need to talk about how we made it to the play. For some reason, we did not pay attention to the venue and when we typed into our smart phones KC Repertory Theater. We were happy that the theatre was within the walking distance to the Art Museum. However, the one we made on time(!) was not the one we were supposed to be. It was a different stage in a different neighbourhood and we realized it when we had 5 minutes to the curtain-opening at 2 pm. See, it is not enough to have a smart phone as I always joke about, the owner needs to be smart as well! I called a taxi company and was told that that there was a waiting list. We walked out, desperately. We needed a miracle to happen. I was so upset that my birthday gift to Oya would be wasted in this manner. Let alone the total dollars on the two tickets. Then we saw a young American couple looking for the entrance of the theatre. Oya asked them which play they were going to see and it turned out that they were in the wrong spot too for the very same play we were literally missing while having the conversation. It was 2 pm but they had a car and they knew where to go (Copaken Stage). They gave us a ride, very calm and friendly the whole time. We only missed the very beginning of a 1.5 hr long play, and the people checking our tickets were friendly enough that we needed not to cry or make a scene to be accepted to the play. We were shown decent seats at the balcony and enjoyed the play fully. The whole time, I was thinking: How is that possible? Countless gratitude to our Angels (both of whom have been to Istanbul and enjoyed the experience) who are disguised as human beings on earth. Since the play itself was on the different interpretations of Islam, me, the spiritual feminist, was experiencing something in awe. That was the only thing that made focusing on the play a bit difficult for me. After the play, we exchanged emails and was wondering how to appease the huge hunger we have (obviously the adrenalin rush at 2 pm stopped that for a while). The Angel-couple gave us another ride, this time to downtown KC, showed us around (e.g. the opera building, which was modelled after the famous Sydney Opera), the KC skyline and dropped us at a local restaurant called Anton’s. Good food, good job!

We called a taxi whose driver was from Mombasa, Kenya (and yes, very friendly too) and once at Classic Cup, we began a long conversation about life, religion, Islam, miracles, and orgasmic taste of the zesty pumpkin pie. It was still early and apparently we were still under the effect of the adrenalin pumped into our system, plus the sugar now! That is why we asked the waitress where to go after the pie-experience. Fred P Otts was the recommended name, only 5 minutes walking distance (which we managed to make it a 20-min.one) As put wonderfully in one of the online reviews "the un-plaza bar in the plaza", "you are transported far away from the hustle of the Country Club Plaza elites", "the crowd is always interesting and, if you are friendly, will surely meet some new friends to drink with." And guess what? We both are friendly. I cannot go into the details of the wonderful time we spent there but it would be enough to say we sure drew some attention in the midst of the regulars. They did not hesitate to share their stories with us, some shocking, some funny… The wonderful barmaid, Mmmm Marcy was the queen and clearly is loved and respected by the whole local crowd. Her story of the hockey-team dressing room visit as a child is a classic! The bar is frequented by the staff who work around the fancy plaza restaurants and end their shift to chill there. The rebellious blond Chef, who sat next to me for a long time until his bar stool was taken by another guy the moment he stepped out for his smoking break, did not even bother to take off his white apron (or rightly thought that it added to his charm and kept it on intentionally). He was full of stories, strong opinions on "the land of freedom" and had a unique bitter-sweet laughter. Oya & I had a great time and we both felt very grateful for the recommendation. OK, no more details on the characters who wanted to become our friends, or even friends with benefits. We had Jubelale which is a winter warmer style beer brewed by Deschutes, continued with water and disappointed the ones who insisted on buying more drinks for us. Jubelale is delicious and fits the holidays spirit when it is -10C outside. Yes, our whole time in KC, it was very cold, much colder than the average mid-November but the people had big warm, very warm hearts and smiles. Apologies for the cliché saying but it helped us dealing with the cold.

Monday morning was dedicated to some window-shopping and thanks to the wonderful (and genuinely friendly) salesperson Mike, we got to taste an unusual rosemary latte by the local coffeehouse Kaldi's. It is named after the Ethiopian goatherd who discovered the coffee plant, according to popular legend. That is why their symbol is a jumping goat who got high on caffeine! Lunch at good-old Panera (chain sandwich place) but the highlight of all remains our non-stop conversations and sharing stories one after the other, or speculation about pretty much anything (men-women relations, scepticism on online dating, Oya Başak, the amazing Bogazici Professor of Literature who would assign her students to enjoy life fully and fall in love). Outside was still very cold and windy too. That is why the idea of a warm massage salon sounded so attractive. 

The dinner at Gram&Dun exceeded our expectations by far. Yes, true, it was highly recommended but still… It has been some time since I had such a richly flavourful and delicious meal. I won’t try to express it in words. This feast was combined with a pre-birthday celebration and a wonderful gift from Oya. It is made by a Canadian artist but she got it here from Phoenix Gallery. 

Tuesday morning, we squeezed a visit to the World War I Museum. The volunteers were so eager to inform us about everything but the whole concept of war and weapons are cumbersome for both of us so we probably could not get the best out of it. Plus, the stress of arriving at the airport on time. It was good to have the leftover cheese we saved for snack. And always the half-jokingly asked question at the hotels during breakfast: How can you not have cheese? Mistake! Thus, we bought our cheese and added to the hotel’s breakfast menu of fried potatoes, pancakes, scrambles eggs, bacon and donuts. We shook heads by the sight of the small kids around us whose plates were full of crap and the parents seemed to be okay with it.

It is not easy to say goodbye and I feel particularly clumsy at the airports. That is why our last latte sucked! The African goatherd Kaldi punished us for choosing Starbucks. But as long as I keep on believing in miracles, separations become lighter and easier to deal with. Remember, Oya got my gift from Phoenix gallery? And unlike the ordinary migratory mortal birds, phoenix is a long-lived bird that is regenerated or reborn at regular intervals. It is like our friendship, like our tested sisterhood of the traveling pants. We still don’t know how I fully fit into her pants and shoes at the same time during my PhD defense at York in 2010 but that is another story for later. 



Our next meeting…  Who knows? Maybe in Paris, the Kansas City of France!



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